AllantoinvsAloe Vera

Allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin) stimulates cell proliferation and tissue regeneration by promoting fibroblast activity, keratinocyte proliferation, and extracellular matrix synthesis including collagen and glycosaminoglycans. It acts as a mild keratolytic by promoting the natural desquamation process—loosening corneocyte adhesion and facilitating shedding—without the irritation, pH disruption, or barrier compromise associated with alpha- or beta-hydroxy acids. Allantoin has anti-inflammatory properties through modulation of prostaglandin synthesis (inhibiting COX-2 and reducing PGE2) and may downregulate pro-inflammatory cytokines. Its moisturizing effect comes from increasing the water-binding capacity of the extracellular matrix and stratum corneum; it is highly soluble and forms hydrogen bonds with water. Allantoin also promotes wound epithelialization. Its safety profile—non-irritating, non-sensitizing, non-comedogenic—makes it suitable for compromised skin, post-procedure care, and infant formulations.

Acemannan (acetylated mannan polysaccharide) is the primary bioactive—it binds to macrophage mannose receptors and stimulates macrophage phagocytosis, cytokine release (IL-1, TNF-α), and fibroblast proliferation via growth factor induction, accelerating wound healing and granulation tissue formation. Acemannan also promotes keratinocyte proliferation and migration. Aloesin (a chromone) inhibits tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), providing mild brightening. Aloe-emodin has antibacterial activity against Gram-positive bacteria and antiviral effects. Salicylic acid naturally present in aloe inhibits cyclooxygenase (COX), providing mild anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects. The gel matrix forms a semi-occlusive film that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Aloe contains glucomannan, which acts as a humectant. Proteolytic enzymes (bradykinase) may contribute to anti-inflammatory activity. Use inner leaf gel to avoid anthraquinones in the latex that can cause irritation.