Ingredient Research Database
Research-backed information on ingredients — dosage, half-life, risks, and clinical evidence from dermatological research.
Popular Ingredients
Adapalene
A third-generation synthetic retinoid originally developed for acne that has significant anti-aging benefits. Adapalene is more stable than tretinoin (resistant to light and oxygen degradation) and better tolerated because it selectively binds to RAR-beta and RAR-gamma receptors rather than all three subtypes. The 0.1% concentration became available OTC in 2016 (Differin), making it the most accessible prescription-strength retinoid.
Allantoin
A gentle compound found naturally in comfrey root, chamomile, and wheat sprouts that promotes skin healing, moisturization, and the shedding of dead skin cells. Allantoin has been used in dermatology for over 70 years and is one of the most universally tolerated ingredients — it soothes, protects, and promotes recovery without any known irritation potential. Found in everything from diaper cream to post-procedure products.
Aloe Vera
One of the oldest and most recognized soothing ingredients, used for millennia for burns, wounds, and skin irritation. Aloe vera gel contains over 75 active compounds including polysaccharides, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes. It provides immediate cooling, hydration, and anti-inflammatory relief. The evidence is strongest for wound healing, sunburn recovery, and moisturization.
Alpha Arbutin
A naturally derived tyrosinase inhibitor extracted from bearberry, cranberry, and blueberry plants. Alpha arbutin slowly releases hydroquinone in a controlled manner within the skin to lighten hyperpigmentation safely. It is significantly gentler than direct hydroquinone application while providing meaningful brightening over time. One of the safest and most effective brightening ingredients available.
Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3)
Known as 'topical Botox,' Argireline is a peptide that reduces the appearance of expression lines by partially inhibiting the SNARE complex — the same mechanism targeted by botulinum toxin, but through topical application rather than injection. The effect is much milder than Botox (roughly 30% wrinkle reduction vs 80%+) but provides a non-invasive option for forehead lines, crow's feet, and frown lines.
Azelaic Acid
A dicarboxylic acid naturally produced by yeast on the skin. Azelaic acid is a true multi-tasker that treats acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation simultaneously. It is one of the few active ingredients considered safe during pregnancy, and it uniquely targets only abnormal melanocytes — meaning it brightens dark spots without lightening normal skin. Effective for both inflammatory acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH).
Bakuchiol
A plant-derived compound from Psoralea corylifolia seeds that provides retinol-like benefits without retinoid chemistry. Bakuchiol does not bind to retinoic acid receptors — it achieves similar gene expression changes through a completely different mechanism, making it safe during pregnancy and for skin too sensitive for any retinoid. Clinical studies show comparable improvements in wrinkles and pigmentation to 0.5% retinol.
Benzoyl Peroxide
The most effective OTC acne treatment and one of the few topical treatments that kills acne-causing bacteria (C. acnes) without promoting antibiotic resistance. Benzoyl peroxide works through oxidation — it releases oxygen into pores, creating an environment where anaerobic bacteria cannot survive. It is one of three first-line acne treatments (alongside adapalene and salicylic acid) recommended by dermatological guidelines.
Centella Asiatica
Also known as Cica, Gotu Kola, or Tiger Grass, Centella Asiatica is an herb used in traditional medicine for wound healing that has become one of the most popular soothing ingredients in Korean and global skincare. Its active compounds (madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, asiatic acid) reduce inflammation, stimulate collagen production, and accelerate wound healing. Essential for sensitive and compromised skin.
Ceramides
Lipids that make up approximately 50% of the skin barrier by weight. Ceramides form the 'mortar' between skin cells (the 'bricks'), creating a waterproof barrier that prevents water loss and keeps irritants out. When the skin barrier is damaged — from over-exfoliation, harsh cleansers, retinoid use, or conditions like eczema — ceramide levels are depleted, and replenishing them is essential for recovery.
Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone)
A naturally occurring antioxidant present in every cell that declines significantly with age. In the skin, CoQ10 protects against oxidative damage from UV radiation and pollution, supports cellular energy production in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and reduces the depth of wrinkles. It is both an antioxidant and an energizer of the cellular processes that maintain skin health.
Ferulic Acid
A plant-derived antioxidant found in rice bran, oats, and coffee beans that dramatically enhances the stability and photoprotective effects of vitamins C and E. The landmark 2005 study by Pinnell et al. showed that adding 0.5% ferulic acid to a vitamin C + E formulation doubled the photoprotection from SPF 4 to SPF 8 equivalent and improved the stability of vitamin C by 8x. This is why the 'CEF' combination is the most popular antioxidant serum format.
Glycerin
The most effective and best-studied humectant in skincare. Glycerin (glycerol) is a small molecule that penetrates the stratum corneum readily, drawing water from the atmosphere and deeper skin layers to hydrate the outer skin. Present in virtually every moisturizer and many serums. Studies show it rivals or outperforms hyaluronic acid for hydration efficacy at a fraction of the cost.
Glycolic Acid
The smallest and most penetrating alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Derived from sugarcane, glycolic acid exfoliates by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface, revealing smoother, brighter skin underneath. It is the most studied AHA with robust evidence for improving texture, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and overall skin radiance. The gold standard chemical exfoliant.
Hyaluronic Acid
The most popular hydrating ingredient in skincare. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan naturally produced by the body that can hold up to 1,000x its weight in water. In skincare, different molecular weights serve different functions: high molecular weight HA sits on the skin surface forming a moisture barrier, while low molecular weight HA penetrates deeper layers for plumping hydration.
Kojic Acid
A natural brightening agent produced as a byproduct of sake and soy sauce fermentation. Kojic acid inhibits tyrosinase by chelating copper, which is required for the enzyme's active site. It is one of the most effective OTC alternatives to hydroquinone for treating hyperpigmentation, melasma, and age spots, though it is less stable in formulation and can cause contact sensitization over time.
Lactic Acid
A gentle AHA derived from milk that provides chemical exfoliation plus hydration — a unique dual benefit. Lactic acid has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid, so it penetrates more slowly and causes less irritation, making it ideal for sensitive skin and AHA beginners. It also has humectant properties, drawing moisture into the skin as it exfoliates.
Mandelic Acid
The gentlest AHA, derived from bitter almonds. Mandelic acid has the largest molecular size of commonly used AHAs (152 Da), giving it the slowest skin penetration and the least irritation potential. It is also lipophilic (partially oil-soluble), giving it some ability to penetrate pores — a property unique among AHAs. Especially effective for acne-prone skin with hyperpigmentation, and safe for darker skin tones.
Matrixyl (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4)
One of the most studied anti-aging peptides. Matrixyl is a signal peptide that mimics collagen fragments (matrikines), tricking fibroblasts into thinking collagen has been broken down and needs to be replaced. This stimulates new collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid production. Clinical studies show visible wrinkle reduction comparable to retinol but without any irritation.
Niacinamide
A true multitasker — niacinamide (vitamin B3) addresses almost every skin concern simultaneously. It strengthens the skin barrier by boosting ceramide production, reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanosome transfer, controls sebum production, minimizes pore appearance, reduces redness, and has anti-aging benefits. One of the most versatile and well-tolerated actives in skincare.
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5)
The provitamin form of vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) that provides deep hydration, barrier repair, and wound healing support. When applied to skin, panthenol is converted to pantothenic acid, which is a component of coenzyme A — essential for fatty acid synthesis and skin barrier function. It is one of the most common ingredients in moisturizers and healing creams, and is the active ingredient in products like Bepanthen/Bepanthol.
Petrolatum (Vaseline)
The most effective occlusive ingredient available — petrolatum reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by 99%. Despite misconceptions, it does not clog pores and does not prevent skin from 'breathing.' Dermatologists recommend it universally for barrier repair, wound healing, and locking in moisture. It is the standard against which all other moisturizing ingredients are measured.
Resveratrol
A polyphenol antioxidant found in grape skins, red wine, and Japanese knotweed. Resveratrol activates sirtuins — the same 'longevity genes' activated by caloric restriction — in skin cells. It has strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and emerging research shows it can prevent UV-induced skin damage and support collagen production. Most effective when combined with other antioxidants.
Retinol
The most popular over-the-counter retinoid. Retinol must be converted by skin enzymes into retinaldehyde, then into retinoic acid (tretinoin) to become active. This multi-step conversion means retinol is roughly 10-20x less potent than prescription tretinoin, but also significantly less irritating — making it the entry point for retinoid beginners.
Salicylic Acid
The only beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) used in skincare. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate into pores and dissolve the sebum and dead skin that cause blackheads and acne. This makes it fundamentally different from AHAs (which only work on the skin surface). It also has direct anti-inflammatory properties, reducing the redness and swelling of acne lesions.
Snail Mucin
Snail secretion filtrate — the mucus produced by Cryptomphalus aspersa snails — has become a star ingredient in Korean skincare. It naturally contains hyaluronic acid, glycoproteins, proteoglycans, antimicrobial peptides, copper peptides, and allantoin. This complex mixture provides hydration, wound healing, and anti-aging benefits. The COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence popularized the ingredient globally.
Squalane
A lightweight, non-comedogenic emollient oil derived from squalene — a lipid naturally produced by human sebaceous glands. Squalane (the hydrogenated, stable form) mimics the skin's natural oils, making it an excellent moisturizer that rarely causes breakouts. It softens skin, reduces water loss, and has antioxidant properties. Increasingly sourced from sugarcane and olives rather than shark liver.
Titanium Dioxide
A mineral sunscreen filter that provides excellent UVB protection but less complete UVA coverage than zinc oxide. Often combined with zinc oxide in mineral sunscreens for comprehensive coverage. Titanium dioxide has a more elegant cosmetic feel than zinc oxide (less white cast, lighter texture) while maintaining the safety advantages of mineral filters.
Tranexamic Acid
Originally an oral medication for heavy menstrual bleeding, tranexamic acid (TXA) has emerged as one of the most effective treatments for melasma and stubborn hyperpigmentation that does not respond to conventional treatments. It works through a unique mechanism — blocking plasmin-mediated stimulation of melanocytes — that is different from tyrosinase inhibitors, making it an excellent combination partner.
Tretinoin
The gold standard anti-aging ingredient with the most clinical evidence of any topical. Tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) is the active form of vitamin A that directly binds to retinoic acid receptors in skin cells. It accelerates cell turnover, stimulates collagen synthesis, reduces fine lines and wrinkles, fades hyperpigmentation, and improves skin texture. Prescription-only in most countries.
Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)
The most potent topical antioxidant with strong clinical evidence for brightening, anti-aging, and photoprotection. L-Ascorbic Acid is the pure, active form that directly neutralizes free radicals, inhibits melanin production, and stimulates collagen synthesis. The challenge is formulation — it is notoriously unstable and must be at low pH (2.5-3.5) for skin penetration, which can cause irritation.
Zinc Oxide
The gold standard mineral (physical) sunscreen filter. Zinc oxide provides the broadest spectrum UV protection of any single ingredient, covering the entire UVA and UVB range. It works by physically reflecting and scattering UV photons rather than absorbing them (though new research shows it also absorbs some UV energy). It is the only sunscreen filter generally recognized as safe for all ages, including infants.
Recent Research
Clinical studies and research papers will appear here once indexing is enabled.