Exfoliation Ingredients
8Chemical exfoliants dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, accelerating natural cell turnover. AHAs (glycolic, lactic) work on the skin surface and are best for texture and fine lines. BHAs (salicylic) are oil-soluble and penetrate pores, making them better for acne and blackheads.
Gluconolactone (PHA)
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) — the gentlest class of chemical exfoliants. Gluconolactone has a very large molecular size, so it works extremely slowly on the skin surface without penetrating deeply. This makes it ideal for extremely sensitive skin, rosacea-prone skin, and those who cannot tolerate AHAs or BHAs. It also acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin as it gently exfoliates.
Glycolic Acid
The smallest and most penetrating alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Derived from sugarcane, glycolic acid exfoliates by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface, revealing smoother, brighter skin underneath. It is the most studied AHA with robust evidence for improving texture, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and overall skin radiance. The gold standard chemical exfoliant.
Lactic Acid
A gentle AHA derived from milk that provides chemical exfoliation plus hydration — a unique dual benefit. Lactic acid has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid, so it penetrates more slowly and causes less irritation, making it ideal for sensitive skin and AHA beginners. It also has humectant properties, drawing moisture into the skin as it exfoliates.
Mandelic Acid
The gentlest AHA, derived from bitter almonds. Mandelic acid has the largest molecular size of commonly used AHAs (152 Da), giving it the slowest skin penetration and the least irritation potential. It is also lipophilic (partially oil-soluble), giving it some ability to penetrate pores — a property unique among AHAs. Especially effective for acne-prone skin with hyperpigmentation, and safe for darker skin tones.
Mandelic Acid
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from bitter almonds with a molecular weight nearly double that of glycolic acid (152 Da vs 76 Da). This larger molecule penetrates more slowly and evenly, making mandelic acid the gentlest AHA with the least irritation potential. It is also lipophilic, giving it mild antibacterial properties similar to salicylic acid. Excellent for acne-prone, sensitive, and melanin-rich skin types.
Salicylic Acid
The only beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) used in skincare. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate into pores and dissolve the sebum and dead skin that cause blackheads and acne. This makes it fundamentally different from AHAs (which only work on the skin surface). It also has direct anti-inflammatory properties, reducing the redness and swelling of acne lesions.
Sulfur
One of the oldest acne treatments, used for centuries. Sulfur has keratolytic (exfoliating), antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties that make it effective for acne, seborrheic dermatitis, and rosacea. It has a distinctive smell but is gentler than benzoyl peroxide and works well for people who cannot tolerate BP or salicylic acid. Often found in traditional 'sulfur soap' and spot treatments.
Urea
A natural component of the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) that serves as both a humectant and a keratolytic depending on concentration. At low concentrations (2-10%), urea hydrates by drawing water into the stratum corneum. At higher concentrations (20-40%), it breaks down keratin protein, making it a powerful treatment for rough, thickened, or keratotic skin conditions like keratosis pilaris, calluses, and psoriasis.