Salicylic Acid

The only beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) used in skincare. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate into pores and dissolve the sebum and dead skin that cause blackheads and acne. This makes it fundamentally different from AHAs (which only work on the skin surface). It also has direct anti-inflammatory properties, reducing the redness and swelling of acne lesions.

Salicylic acid is the only BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) used in skincare, and its oil solubility is what makes it uniquely effective for acne. While AHAs like glycolic acid only work on the skin surface, salicylic acid can dissolve into the oily environment inside pores, clearing out the sebum and dead cells that cause blackheads, whiteheads, and inflammatory acne.

The concentration debate is largely settled: 2% is the standard maximum for OTC leave-on products, and many people find 0.5-1% sufficient for maintenance. The product format matters more than concentration — a 2% leave-on serum provides much more contact time and therefore more exfoliation than a 2% cleanser that is rinsed off after 30-60 seconds.

Salicylic acid's anti-inflammatory properties are often underappreciated. It inhibits cyclooxygenase (COX) enzymes — the same mechanism as aspirin (which is acetylsalicylic acid). This means it does not just clear pores; it directly reduces the redness and swelling of inflammatory acne. For this reason, it is often the better choice than benzoyl peroxide for people whose primary concern is red, inflamed pimples rather than blackheads.

Concentration & Usage

Concentrations: 0.5-2% for daily use products (cleansers, toners, serums). Up to 30% for professional peels. Start with 0.5-1% every other day and increase. Leave-on products are more effective than wash-off. For body acne (back, chest): 2% is standard.

Application

Topical (cleanser, toner, serum, spot treatment, body wash, peel). Leave-on products provide better efficacy than wash-off.

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Mechanism of Action

Salicylic acid (ortho-hydroxybenzoic acid) is a lipophilic beta-hydroxy acid—the ortho hydroxyl enables sebum and follicular lipid solubility, unlike water-soluble AHAs. It penetrates the pilosebaceous unit and induces desmolysis: disruption of desmosomal attachments and corneodesmosomes, accelerating desquamation of pore-clogging debris. Inside the follicle, it dissolves sebum and keratin plugs (comedolysis). Salicylic acid inhibits COX-1 and COX-2, reducing prostaglandin synthesis—the same anti-inflammatory mechanism as aspirin—decreasing erythema and swelling. Bacteriostatic against Cutibacterium acnes through membrane disruption and pH reduction. May reduce sebum production. Small size (138 Da) and lipophilicity enable follicular penetration to depths AHAs cannot reach.

Ingredient Interactions

NiacinamideExcellent Combo

Salicylic acid exfoliates pores while niacinamide provides anti-inflammatory and barrier-repair benefits. Niacinamide can reduce the redness and irritation from BHA use.

Glycolic AcidUse Carefully

Using both AHA and BHA in the same routine over-exfoliates most skin types. If you want both, use them on different days. Some people with oily, resilient skin can tolerate a gentle version of both, but start cautiously.

Benzoyl PeroxideUse Carefully

Using both at the same time can be very drying. Better approach: salicylic acid cleanser in the AM, benzoyl peroxide spot treatment at PM, or alternate days.

RetinolUse Separately

While some skin can tolerate both, layering retinol and BHA in the same routine risks over-exfoliation. Use salicylic acid in the AM and retinol at PM, or alternate nights.

TretinoinUse Separately

Salicylic acid in the AM cleanser, tretinoin at PM is the safe approach. Avoid layering both at night unless specifically directed by a dermatologist.

Both work at low pH and can irritate when layered. Vitamin C in the morning under sunscreen, salicylic acid in the evening or a different day.

See our full Ingredient Interactions Guide for more combinations and timing strategies.

Regulatory Status

OTC active ingredient (FDA monograph for acne). Available worldwide without prescription. Concentration limits vary by country (typically max 2% for leave-on OTC products).

Risks & Safety

Common

Dryness, peeling, mild stinging. Over-use can compromise the skin barrier.

Serious

Salicylate sensitivity (rare) — avoid if allergic to aspirin. Not recommended in pregnancy at high concentrations.

Rare

Severe peeling from over-application.

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Research Papers

10
Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review.

Published: August 25, 2015

AI Summary

The efficacy and safety of salicylic acid peeling in Fitzpatrick skin types I-III as well as in skin types V and VI have been well documented in the literature. Its properties, efficacy and safety, the peeling procedure, and possible side effects are discussed in detail.

Salicylic acid treats acne vulgaris by suppressing AMPK/SREBP1 pathway in sebocytes.

Published: July 14, 2019

AI Summary

Subsequently, histopathological analysis of a rabbit ear acne model after application of SA for three weeks confirmed that SA suppressed the levels of cytokines and major pathogenic proteins around acne lesions, which supports the mechanisms suggested by our in vitro experiments.

Clinical Efficacy of a Salicylic Acid-Containing Gel on Acne Management and Skin Barrier Function: A 21-Day Prospective Study.

Published: July 22, 2025

AI Summary

Acne vulgaris is a common skin condition characterized by excessive sebum production, inflammation, and compromised skin barrier function. Effective treatments should target both lesion reduction and skin hydration while maintaining tolerability.

Salicylic acid in ginseng root alleviates skin hyperpigmentation disorders by inhibiting melanogenesis and melanosome transport.

Published: November 4, 2021

AI Summary

Additionally, salicylic acid treatment reduced expression of melanogenic enzymes tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 and tyrosinase-related protein 2, while reducing expression of their master transcriptional regulator, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor.

30% Supramolecular Salicylic Acid Improved Symptoms and Skin Barrier in Papulopustular Rosacea.

Published: February 25, 2025

AI Summary

Rosacea is a chronic skin condition that affects millions of people worldwide, and its management continues to pose a significant challenge in dermatology.

Synthesis and new skin-relevant properties of the salicylic acid ester of bakuchiol.

Published: March 20, 2023

AI Summary

Bakusylan (bakuchiol salicylate) is a bipartite compound obtained by merging two skin-active entities with complementary bioactivities-bakuchiol and salicylic acid-for the purpose of generating a new class of functional retinoids with enhanced skin benefits.

Oxidative damage prevention in human skin and sensory neurons by a salicylic acid derivative.

Published: March 30, 2022

AI Summary

Increased protein carbonylation is a hallmark of oxidative stress, protein homeostasis dysregulation and aging in the nervous system and skin. We have previously reported that the 5-octanoyl salicylic acid (C8-SA), a salicylic acid derivative, increased C.

Effect of 30% Supramolecular Salicylic Acid Peel on Skin Microbiota and Inflammation in Patients with Moderate-to-Severe Acne Vulgaris.

Published: January 8, 2023

AI Summary

Thirty-percent supramolecular salicylic acid (SSA), a modified salicylic acid preparation, is a safe and effective treatment for moderate-to-severe acne vulgaris (AV). However, its mechanism of action remains unclear.

Rapid skin optical clearing enhancement with salicylic acid for imaging blood vessels in vivo.

Published: December 19, 2020

AI Summary

Light penetration in deeper tissue is impeded by the skin scattering properties, which significantly limits the clinical applications of light in medical diagnosis and therapy. For this, a controllable approach for the SC disruption through physical or chemical methods is highly required for enhanced skin optical clearing.

Novel 2% Salicylic Acid Cleanser With Polymeric Cleansing Technology Treats Acne Without Compromising Skin Barrier.

Published: May 31, 2025

AI Summary

A novel acne cleanser containing 2% Salicylic acid (SA), Polymeric Cleansing Technology (PCT), and a microgel complex, was evaluated for its efficacy in treating mild to moderate acne while maintaining skin barrier integrity.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Salicylic Acid used for?

The only beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) used in skincare. Salicylic acid is oil-soluble, meaning it can penetrate into pores and dissolve the sebum and dead skin that cause blackheads and acne. This makes it fundamentally different from AHAs (which only work on the skin surface). It also has direct anti-inflammatory properties, reducing the redness and swelling of acne lesions.

What are the side effects of Salicylic Acid?

Common: Dryness, peeling, mild stinging. Over-use can compromise the skin barrier. Serious: Salicylate sensitivity (rare) — avoid if allergic to aspirin. Not recommended in pregnancy at high concentrations. Rare: Severe peeling from over-application.

How is Salicylic Acid administered?

Salicylic Acid is administered via topical (cleanser, toner, serum, spot treatment, body wash, peel). leave-on products provide better efficacy than wash-off..

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