Quick Comparison
| Aloe Vera | Gluconolactone (PHA) | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Concentration | Apply pure aloe vera gel or products containing high concentrations (>50% aloe). For sunburn: apply liberally and frequently. For daily use as a soothing moisturizer: apply after cleansing. Refrigerating aloe gel provides additional cooling relief. | Concentrations: 4-15%. Can often be used daily even by sensitive skin types. Apply morning or night. No sun sensitivity increase (unlike AHAs). pH range: 3.5-4.5. |
| Application | Topical (gel, cream, lotion). Pure inner leaf gel or standardized extracts. Apply to clean skin. | Topical (serum, toner, cream). Gentle enough for daily use on most skin types. |
| Research Papers | 10 papers | 4 papers |
| Categories |
Mechanism of Action
Aloe Vera
Acemannan (acetylated mannan polysaccharide) is the primary bioactive—it binds to macrophage mannose receptors and stimulates macrophage phagocytosis, cytokine release (IL-1, TNF-α), and fibroblast proliferation via growth factor induction, accelerating wound healing and granulation tissue formation. Acemannan also promotes keratinocyte proliferation and migration. Aloesin (a chromone) inhibits tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), providing mild brightening. Aloe-emodin has antibacterial activity against Gram-positive bacteria and antiviral effects. Salicylic acid naturally present in aloe inhibits cyclooxygenase (COX), providing mild anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects. The gel matrix forms a semi-occlusive film that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Aloe contains glucomannan, which acts as a humectant. Proteolytic enzymes (bradykinase) may contribute to anti-inflammatory activity. Use inner leaf gel to avoid anthraquinones in the latex that can cause irritation.
Gluconolactone (PHA)
Gluconolactone hydrolyzes desmosomal proteins and glycosaminoglycan bonds between corneocytes in stratum corneum, promoting desquamation. Large molecular size (178 Da vs glycolic acid 76 Da) means slow, even penetration through lipid bilayer — no irritation-causing 'hot spots' of concentrated acid. Gentle, sustained exfoliation. Six hydroxyl groups per molecule make it a potent humectant, forming hydrogen bonds with water and drawing moisture into stratum corneum. Chelates iron and copper ions, reducing metal-catalyzed free radical formation. Has antioxidant properties. Unlike AHAs, does not increase UV sensitivity. Lactone ring hydrolyzes to gluconic acid at skin pH. Ideal for sensitive skin, rosacea, those intolerant of glycolic or salicylic acid.
Risks & Safety
Aloe Vera
Common
May cause drying if used alone (aloe lacks occlusive properties, so moisture can evaporate).
Serious
None from topical use.
Rare
Allergic contact dermatitis (especially to compounds in the latex/outer leaf, not the inner gel). Oral aloe vera is a separate concern with laxative effects.
Gluconolactone (PHA)
Common
Essentially none — one of the most tolerated exfoliants. Slight stickiness.
Serious
None.
Rare
Mild irritation in extremely reactive skin.
Full Profiles
Aloe Vera →
One of the oldest and most recognized soothing ingredients, used for millennia for burns, wounds, and skin irritation. Aloe vera gel contains over 75 active compounds including polysaccharides, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes. It provides immediate cooling, hydration, and anti-inflammatory relief. The evidence is strongest for wound healing, sunburn recovery, and moisturization.
Gluconolactone (PHA) →
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) — the gentlest class of chemical exfoliants. Gluconolactone has a very large molecular size, so it works extremely slowly on the skin surface without penetrating deeply. This makes it ideal for extremely sensitive skin, rosacea-prone skin, and those who cannot tolerate AHAs or BHAs. It also acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin as it gently exfoliates.