Quick Comparison
| Aloe Vera | Licorice Root Extract | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Concentration | Apply pure aloe vera gel or products containing high concentrations (>50% aloe). For sunburn: apply liberally and frequently. For daily use as a soothing moisturizer: apply after cleansing. Refrigerating aloe gel provides additional cooling relief. | Concentrations vary; glabridin at 0.1-0.4% is the most active brightening component. Full extract at 1-4%. Apply morning and/or night. Safe for all skin types. Often combined with niacinamide and arbutin for enhanced brightening. |
| Application | Topical (gel, cream, lotion). Pure inner leaf gel or standardized extracts. Apply to clean skin. | Topical (serum, cream, toner). Very stable in formulation. Compatible with most active ingredients. |
| Research Papers | 10 papers | 10 papers |
| Categories |
Mechanism of Action
Aloe Vera
Acemannan (acetylated mannan polysaccharide) is the primary bioactive—it binds to macrophage mannose receptors and stimulates macrophage phagocytosis, cytokine release (IL-1, TNF-α), and fibroblast proliferation via growth factor induction, accelerating wound healing and granulation tissue formation. Acemannan also promotes keratinocyte proliferation and migration. Aloesin (a chromone) inhibits tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), providing mild brightening. Aloe-emodin has antibacterial activity against Gram-positive bacteria and antiviral effects. Salicylic acid naturally present in aloe inhibits cyclooxygenase (COX), providing mild anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects. The gel matrix forms a semi-occlusive film that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Aloe contains glucomannan, which acts as a humectant. Proteolytic enzymes (bradykinase) may contribute to anti-inflammatory activity. Use inner leaf gel to avoid anthraquinones in the latex that can cause irritation.
Licorice Root Extract
Glabridin competitively inhibits tyrosinase by binding copper active site (CuA, CuB), blocking tyrosine to L-DOPA hydroxylation and DOPA to dopaquinone oxidation. Also inhibits tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1). Liquiritin disperses existing melanin via melanosome transfer inhibition and autophagy pathway upregulation in keratinocytes. Glycyrrhizin inhibits COX-2 and 5-lipoxygenase, reducing prostaglandin and leukotriene production. Multi-mechanism brightening: tyrosinase inhibition, melanin dispersal, anti-inflammation. Unlike hydroquinone, no melanocyte cytotoxicity — suitable for long-term use and all skin tones. Glabridin has free radical scavenging antioxidant activity. Glycyrrhizin's 11-beta-HSD inhibition has minimal systemic effect with topical use.
Risks & Safety
Aloe Vera
Common
May cause drying if used alone (aloe lacks occlusive properties, so moisture can evaporate).
Serious
None from topical use.
Rare
Allergic contact dermatitis (especially to compounds in the latex/outer leaf, not the inner gel). Oral aloe vera is a separate concern with laxative effects.
Licorice Root Extract
Common
Very well-tolerated.
Serious
None documented topically. Oral licorice (glycyrrhizin) can elevate blood pressure, but topical use does not have this effect.
Rare
Allergic contact dermatitis.
Full Profiles
Aloe Vera →
One of the oldest and most recognized soothing ingredients, used for millennia for burns, wounds, and skin irritation. Aloe vera gel contains over 75 active compounds including polysaccharides, vitamins, minerals, and enzymes. It provides immediate cooling, hydration, and anti-inflammatory relief. The evidence is strongest for wound healing, sunburn recovery, and moisturization.
Licorice Root Extract →
A natural brightening and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from Glycyrrhiza glabra root. The key actives — glabridin, liquiritin, and glycyrrhizin — inhibit melanin production, reduce inflammation, and soothe irritation. Licorice root is one of the most effective and gentle brightening ingredients available, with lower irritation risk than vitamin C or hydroquinone.