Quick Comparison
| Argan Oil | Gluconolactone (PHA) | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Concentration | Apply 2-4 drops to damp or dry skin after water-based products. Can be used morning and night. For hair: apply to damp ends. Cold-pressed, cosmetic-grade oil preferred over culinary grade (which is roasted and has different properties). | Concentrations: 4-15%. Can often be used daily even by sensitive skin types. Apply morning or night. No sun sensitivity increase (unlike AHAs). pH range: 3.5-4.5. |
| Application | Topical (pure oil or in formulations). Apply as final step of skincare or mixed with moisturizer. | Topical (serum, toner, cream). Gentle enough for daily use on most skin types. |
| Research Papers | 10 papers | 4 papers |
| Categories |
Mechanism of Action
Argan Oil
Oleic acid (43-49%) and linoleic acid (29-36%) provide emollient and barrier-repair effects. Linoleic acid is component of ceramide 1 (acylceramide); acne-prone skin has been shown to have 50% less in sebum — topical supplementation may normalize follicular linoleate levels and reduce comedone formation. Oleic acid enhances penetration of other actives but can disrupt barrier in excess. Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol) at 600-900 mg/kg provides antioxidant protection against lipid peroxidation. Squalene (6-8%) mimics skin's natural sebum composition. Polyphenols (ferulic acid, vanillic acid) provide additional antioxidant effects and may inhibit tyrosinase. Fatty acid profile supports lamellar body formation and ceramide synthesis in keratinocytes. Comedogenic rating 0-2. Cold-pressed oil retains tocopherols and polyphenols lost in refined versions.
Gluconolactone (PHA)
Gluconolactone hydrolyzes desmosomal proteins and glycosaminoglycan bonds between corneocytes in stratum corneum, promoting desquamation. Large molecular size (178 Da vs glycolic acid 76 Da) means slow, even penetration through lipid bilayer — no irritation-causing 'hot spots' of concentrated acid. Gentle, sustained exfoliation. Six hydroxyl groups per molecule make it a potent humectant, forming hydrogen bonds with water and drawing moisture into stratum corneum. Chelates iron and copper ions, reducing metal-catalyzed free radical formation. Has antioxidant properties. Unlike AHAs, does not increase UV sensitivity. Lactone ring hydrolyzes to gluconic acid at skin pH. Ideal for sensitive skin, rosacea, those intolerant of glycolic or salicylic acid.
Risks & Safety
Argan Oil
Common
May cause breakouts in some acne-prone individuals despite relatively low comedogenic rating.
Serious
None.
Rare
Allergic reaction (tree nut allergy cross-reactivity is very rare but possible).
Gluconolactone (PHA)
Common
Essentially none — one of the most tolerated exfoliants. Slight stickiness.
Serious
None.
Rare
Mild irritation in extremely reactive skin.
Full Profiles
Argan Oil →
A luxury oil from the Argania spinosa tree native to Morocco, rich in oleic acid, linoleic acid, vitamin E, and squalene. Argan oil provides excellent moisturization, antioxidant protection, and anti-inflammatory effects. It has a favorable comedogenic rating for an oil and is absorbed relatively quickly. Used for face, hair, and body. Cold-pressed, unrefined oil retains the most bioactives.
Gluconolactone (PHA) →
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) — the gentlest class of chemical exfoliants. Gluconolactone has a very large molecular size, so it works extremely slowly on the skin surface without penetrating deeply. This makes it ideal for extremely sensitive skin, rosacea-prone skin, and those who cannot tolerate AHAs or BHAs. It also acts as a humectant, drawing moisture into the skin as it gently exfoliates.