Quick Comparison

Centella AsiaticaCopper Peptides (GHK-Cu)
Typical ConcentrationUsed in various forms: full extract, TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica — a standardized blend of the four key actives), or individual compounds. Concentrations vary widely (0.1-5% of active compounds). Apply morning and/or night. Safe for daily use on all skin types.Concentrations: 0.1-1% in skincare products. Apply once or twice daily. Do NOT use with strong acids (vitamin C at low pH, AHAs) — copper can catalyze free radical formation with ascorbic acid. Best used as a standalone PM treatment or mixed with peptide serums.
ApplicationTopical (serum, cream, toner, mask). TECA or pure centella extract preferred over whole plant extract for consistency.Topical (serum, cream). Blue/copper-colored products. Do not combine with low-pH vitamin C.
Research Papers10 papers10 papers
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Mechanism of Action

Centella Asiatica

The four key triterpenoid saponins—madecassoside, asiaticoside, madecassic acid, and asiatic acid—exert distinct but complementary mechanisms. Madecassoside and asiaticoside are anti-inflammatory: they inhibit NF-κB nuclear translocation and IκB kinase activity, reducing TNF-α, IL-6, and IL-1β production in keratinocytes and dermal cells. Madecassic acid and asiatic acid (the aglycone forms) stimulate type I and III collagen synthesis in fibroblasts by upregulating collagen gene expression and procollagen production. All four compounds promote wound healing by stimulating angiogenesis via VEGF (vascular endothelial growth factor) upregulation, fibroblast proliferation and migration, and extracellular matrix remodeling. Centella extracts also increase superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activity in skin cells, enhancing endogenous antioxidant defense. The triterpenes may modulate TGF-β and Smad signaling. TECA (Titrated Extract of Centella Asiatica) standardizes these actives for consistent clinical efficacy.

Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu)

GHK-Cu activates wound repair genes through copper-dependent transcription factor modulation. It stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen types I, III, and V via COL1A1, COL3A1, COL5A1 upregulation, plus elastin, decorin, and glycosaminoglycans. Copper serves as cofactor for lysyl oxidase (collagen cross-linking). It attracts macrophages and mast cells releasing PDGF, TGF-beta, FGF. Promotes angiogenesis via VEGF. Uniquely activates MMP-2 and MMP-9 to break down damaged collagen and scar tissue — supporting healthy remodeling. Balanced anabolic-catabolic activity explains efficacy in anti-aging and scar revision. Avoid with vitamin C: copper catalyzes Fenton reactions oxidizing ascorbic acid.

Risks & Safety

Centella Asiatica

Common

Very well-tolerated. Occasionally mild tingling.

Serious

None documented.

Rare

Allergic contact dermatitis (uncommon). Purified extracts are less likely to cause reactions than crude extracts.

Copper Peptides (GHK-Cu)

Common

Blue/green tint to product (normal — copper color). Mild irritation.

Serious

Can be pro-oxidant when combined with vitamin C — avoid concurrent use.

Rare

Allergic reaction to copper.

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