Quick Comparison
| EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) | Licorice Root Extract | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Concentration | Concentrations vary by product (typically measured in ppm or sh-oligopeptide-1 percentage). Applied once or twice daily. Best used after procedures or on aging skin. Apply before oils/occlusives. Store in refrigerator for stability. | Concentrations vary; glabridin at 0.1-0.4% is the most active brightening component. Full extract at 1-4%. Apply morning and/or night. Safe for all skin types. Often combined with niacinamide and arbutin for enhanced brightening. |
| Application | Topical (serum, cream, ampoule). Apply to clean skin. Temperature-sensitive — some products require refrigeration. | Topical (serum, cream, toner). Very stable in formulation. Compatible with most active ingredients. |
| Research Papers | 10 papers | 10 papers |
| Categories |
Mechanism of Action
EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor)
EGF binds EGFR/ErbB1 on keratinocytes and fibroblasts, triggering dimerization and autophosphorylation. Activates MAPK/ERK (Ras-Raf-MEK-ERK) and PI3K/AKT pathways, promoting proliferation, migration (actin reorganization, focal adhesion turnover), and differentiation. Upregulates cyclin D1, inhibits p27. Stimulates fibroblast collagen types I/III and hyaluronic acid via HAS2. In wound healing, accelerates re-epithelialization via keratinocyte migration and reduces scarring via TGF-beta modulation. For anti-aging, promotes cellular renewal and extracellular matrix production. Theoretical cancer concern from EGFR's growth role — topical EGF has not been shown to penetrate to basal layer or systemic circulation significantly.
Licorice Root Extract
Glabridin competitively inhibits tyrosinase by binding copper active site (CuA, CuB), blocking tyrosine to L-DOPA hydroxylation and DOPA to dopaquinone oxidation. Also inhibits tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1). Liquiritin disperses existing melanin via melanosome transfer inhibition and autophagy pathway upregulation in keratinocytes. Glycyrrhizin inhibits COX-2 and 5-lipoxygenase, reducing prostaglandin and leukotriene production. Multi-mechanism brightening: tyrosinase inhibition, melanin dispersal, anti-inflammation. Unlike hydroquinone, no melanocyte cytotoxicity — suitable for long-term use and all skin tones. Glabridin has free radical scavenging antioxidant activity. Glycyrrhizin's 11-beta-HSD inhibition has minimal systemic effect with topical use.
Risks & Safety
EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor)
Common
Very well-tolerated.
Serious
Theoretical concern about promoting growth of pre-existing skin cancers (unproven but debated).
Rare
Mild irritation.
Licorice Root Extract
Common
Very well-tolerated.
Serious
None documented topically. Oral licorice (glycyrrhizin) can elevate blood pressure, but topical use does not have this effect.
Rare
Allergic contact dermatitis.
Full Profiles
EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) →
A signaling protein that stimulates cell growth, proliferation, and differentiation. In skincare, EGF promotes wound healing, skin renewal, and collagen production. Originally used in medical wound care and post-laser recovery, it has become popular in Korean skincare for anti-aging. It is one of the few growth factors with evidence for topical skincare efficacy.
Licorice Root Extract →
A natural brightening and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from Glycyrrhiza glabra root. The key actives — glabridin, liquiritin, and glycyrrhizin — inhibit melanin production, reduce inflammation, and soothe irritation. Licorice root is one of the most effective and gentle brightening ingredients available, with lower irritation risk than vitamin C or hydroquinone.