Quick Comparison
| Licorice Root Extract | Witch Hazel | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Concentration | Concentrations vary; glabridin at 0.1-0.4% is the most active brightening component. Full extract at 1-4%. Apply morning and/or night. Safe for all skin types. Often combined with niacinamide and arbutin for enhanced brightening. | Use alcohol-free witch hazel toner or extract. Apply with cotton pad after cleansing. Can be used morning and night. Thayers is the most popular alcohol-free brand. Avoid products listing 'denatured alcohol' or 'SD alcohol' high in the ingredient list. |
| Application | Topical (serum, cream, toner). Very stable in formulation. Compatible with most active ingredients. | Topical (toner, distillate). Alcohol-free versions preferred. Apply after cleansing. |
| Research Papers | 10 papers | 0 papers |
| Categories |
Mechanism of Action
Licorice Root Extract
Glabridin competitively inhibits tyrosinase by binding copper active site (CuA, CuB), blocking tyrosine to L-DOPA hydroxylation and DOPA to dopaquinone oxidation. Also inhibits tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1). Liquiritin disperses existing melanin via melanosome transfer inhibition and autophagy pathway upregulation in keratinocytes. Glycyrrhizin inhibits COX-2 and 5-lipoxygenase, reducing prostaglandin and leukotriene production. Multi-mechanism brightening: tyrosinase inhibition, melanin dispersal, anti-inflammation. Unlike hydroquinone, no melanocyte cytotoxicity — suitable for long-term use and all skin tones. Glabridin has free radical scavenging antioxidant activity. Glycyrrhizin's 11-beta-HSD inhibition has minimal systemic effect with topical use.
Witch Hazel
Hamamelitannin (a gallotannin) and polyphenols cross-link and precipitate stratum corneum proteins via hydrogen bonding and hydrophobic interactions, temporarily tightening skin surface, reducing pore appearance, creating matte finish by binding sebum. Tannins inhibit 5-lipoxygenase (reducing leukotriene B4) and scavenge reactive oxygen species. Gallic acid, catechins, proanthocyanidins provide antioxidant protection. Hamamelitannin inhibits elastase, potentially protecting elastin. Astringent effect temporary (hours) — does not alter pore size or sebum production long-term. Alcohol-free witch hazel (distillate or hydrosol) preserves benefits; alcohol formulations add drying and barrier-disrupting effects. Polyphenols may have mild vasoconstrictive effects, reducing erythema.
Risks & Safety
Licorice Root Extract
Common
Very well-tolerated.
Serious
None documented topically. Oral licorice (glycyrrhizin) can elevate blood pressure, but topical use does not have this effect.
Rare
Allergic contact dermatitis.
Witch Hazel
Common
Drying if the product contains alcohol. Mild tightening sensation.
Serious
Alcohol-containing versions can damage the skin barrier with chronic use.
Rare
Allergic contact dermatitis.
Full Profiles
Licorice Root Extract →
A natural brightening and anti-inflammatory ingredient derived from Glycyrrhiza glabra root. The key actives — glabridin, liquiritin, and glycyrrhizin — inhibit melanin production, reduce inflammation, and soothe irritation. Licorice root is one of the most effective and gentle brightening ingredients available, with lower irritation risk than vitamin C or hydroquinone.
Witch Hazel →
An astringent extract from Hamamelis virginiana bark and leaves with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Traditional uses include treating acne, reducing pore appearance, and soothing irritated skin. However, many commercial witch hazel toners contain high concentrations of alcohol that can dry and damage the skin barrier. Alcohol-free witch hazel is the preferred form for skincare.