Quick Comparison
| Hemp Seed Oil | Lactic Acid | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Concentration | Apply 2-5 drops as a moisturizer or mix with other products. Cold-pressed, unrefined oil is dark green with a nutty scent. Suitable for oily and acne-prone skin. Comedogenic rating: 0 (non-comedogenic). Use within 3-6 months and store refrigerated. | Concentrations: 5-12% for daily use. 30-50% for professional peels. Start with 5% every other night. The Ordinary offers 5% (gentle) and 10% (moderate) options. Always use SPF during the day. |
| Application | Topical (pure oil). Cold-pressed, unrefined. Can also be taken orally as a supplement. | Topical (serum, peel, toner). Apply to dry skin at night. Follow with moisturizer. |
| Research Papers | 7 papers | 10 papers |
| Categories |
Mechanism of Action
Hemp Seed Oil
Linoleic acid (55-60%) is key active — acne-prone skin has been shown to have 50% less in sebum compared to normal skin; deficiency may contribute to abnormal follicular keratinization and comedone formation. Topical supplementation normalizes sebum composition (linoleate is component of sebum triglycerides), reduces comedone formation, supports ceramide synthesis. GLA (gamma-linolenic acid, 2-4%) converts to DGLA, which inhibits pro-inflammatory leukotriene B4 synthesis (5-lipoxygenase competition) and is precursor to anti-inflammatory prostaglandin E1. 3:1 omega-6:omega-3 ratio considered optimal for skin. Natural vitamin E provides antioxidant protection. Comedogenic rating 0. Contains 0% THC/CBD. Ideal for acne-prone, inflamed, eczema-prone skin. Goes rancid within 3-6 months — store refrigerated.
Lactic Acid
Lactic acid (90 Da, larger than glycolic acid) exfoliates via the standard AHA mechanism: chelating calcium at corneodesmosomes and promoting desquamation through protease activation. Unlike glycolic acid, lactic acid is a natural component of the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and functions as a humectant, drawing water into the stratum corneum through hygroscopic binding. It inhibits tyrosinase enzyme activity in melanocytes, providing mild brightening. At higher concentrations (10%+), lactic acid upregulates serine palmitoyltransferase and glucosylceramide synthase in keratinocytes, stimulating ceramide synthesis and improving barrier lipid composition. It also enhances filaggrin proteolysis to NMF components. This dual action—exfoliation plus barrier support—makes it the most moisturizing AHA and clinically useful for dry, sensitive, or barrier-compromised skin.
Risks & Safety
Hemp Seed Oil
Common
Can feel slightly heavy for very oily skin. Goes rancid quickly if not stored properly.
Serious
None.
Rare
Very rare allergic reaction.
Lactic Acid
Common
Mild stinging, redness — less than glycolic acid at equivalent concentrations. Sun sensitivity.
Serious
None at cosmetic concentrations.
Rare
Over-exfoliation with daily high-concentration use.
Full Profiles
Hemp Seed Oil →
Cold-pressed from Cannabis sativa seeds, hemp seed oil has an ideal 3:1 ratio of omega-6 to omega-3 fatty acids — the ratio considered optimal for skin health. It is rich in linoleic acid (which acne-prone skin is deficient in), gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, a potent anti-inflammatory), and natural vitamin E. Does not contain THC or CBD. One of the best oils for acne-prone, inflamed, or eczema-prone skin.
Lactic Acid →
A gentle AHA derived from milk that provides chemical exfoliation plus hydration — a unique dual benefit. Lactic acid has a larger molecular size than glycolic acid, so it penetrates more slowly and causes less irritation, making it ideal for sensitive skin and AHA beginners. It also has humectant properties, drawing moisture into the skin as it exfoliates.